Audiofonics (ADF-2.2) 2 Farad Digital Power Capacitor; Nitro (BMW-2.2) 2.0 Farad High Performance 24 VDC Digital Capacitor. Car Amplifier Installation & Accessories.
Quick question. I am trying to have a led bar light on the front of my nitro that comes on when I turn on the headlights. I am not using my stock headlights at all right now, Just fog lights and white led parking lights with amber switchback turn signals. But my problem is that the relay for the bar light keeps humming when I turn on the headlights.
So I then bought a H13 Error canceller/capacitor to install in the headlight plug before it activates the relay. Now it works with out humming but sometimes does not work at all. When I put a meter on the headlight plug I notice that I never lose voltage completely to what I thought was ground in the plug. But the repair manuel is stating that it is a 'HEADLAMP RTN SIG'.
So my question is, what if I use the switch leg side for my hot to the relay and then ground the ground for the relay to the frame. Do you think that this might work?
Scar0, I do believe that is how I have it. I have the canceler/capacitor (error eliminator) plugged into the headlight plug. It has a male and female H13 plug. Instead of the stock headlight ( do not have them hooked up right now). I then have the ground and the positive from the relay hooked up to the other side of the canceler, with the feed for the relay, with a fuse, then going to the bar light for the hot.
The ground for the bar light is going to the battery. So I believe that I have everything right, but the ground for the relay. I think that I need to take it out of the headlight plug and run that to the battery also as a ground. Or at least the frame somewhere.
I believe this should fix the problem. I have been a commercial electrician for 20 years, but I still have automotive wiring. The relay takes almost no voltage to trigger and hold the points closed. So my bet is the resister in the error eliminator is not great enough. Since you are getting power for the LED bar direct from the battery it is not putting any draw on the headlight circuit. It could also be to great of a resistor, over loading the circuit. The result would be the same.
If both headlights are not connected, then you may need another resister on the other plug as well = to the normal headlight draw. The TIPM will kill power to the headlight circuit if it detects a fault, then restarts them. After 3 faults it will shut it down. This is why HID lights cause a flicker and eventually they go out. Just not enough draw once they fire up. Add Mkv File To Windows Media Player Library.
The problem with direct HID replacement is the HIGH draw to warm them up can fry the wires and TIPM, and once on, do not draw enough power to keep the TIPM from shutting down the circuit. The possible problem I see with a direct ground for the relay is no return signal will come from the HL circuit and the TIPM may kill the power to it (my bad on the previous post above). What you may need to do is wire it just like it is a HID install using an HID error eliminator of the correct resistance. Another option is to calculate the LED bar watt draw, subtract that from the normal headlight draw, get a resistor of the difference, and direct wire it in sequence to the headlight plug. Caution: DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!